Thursday, April 16, 2015

You have to go to Rishikesh!

Namaste!
I hope you are well today! Mike and I have finally arrived at Bija Vidyapeeth, located outside of Dehradun the capital of Uttarakhand. Though I am excited to be still for a while, I have to say that I really didn't want to leave Rishikesh. This small city straddling the banks of the Ganges has captured my heart, along with the hearts of countless other Western tourists that I chatted with.

Compared to Delhi, Rishikesh is quite clean, peaceful and feels much safer. I attributed these factors to how spiritual of a place Rishikesh is. There are temples upon temples, ashrams on top of ashrams and tribute statues to Lord Shiva everywhere that you look. The Sadhus (def: good, holy men) are abundant and clad in their orange robes and facepaint.

A typical Sadhu in Rishikesh.
Despite how many non-Indian yogis and yoginis visit Rishikesh each year, I would say that it remains largely untainted by western culture. Could they cash in and create luxury accomodations, dining and shopping? Of course! Do they see opportunity? Yes, and some of them have taken advantage of this. They are so deeply embedded in their spirituality however, that they wouldn't stray from their good intent, to be authentic. Talking to shop owners, in specific the owner of LA Seeds of Life Cafe (MUST GO- best food in Rishikesh) the aim is to provide the most similar experience of Rishikesh that you could have gotten years ago. People come for the yoga, whether or not they get what they expected is another question.

My breakfast at LA Seeds of Life Cafe
The yoga in Rishikesh is mostly Hatha (knees drop and hips up in Chaturanga), the focus is on alignment and breath. Be prepared for adjustments that feel like they are going to dislocate a shoulder, break your neck and crack your spine. I was startled by this and multiple times told the instructor that I had met my limit, he said trust. He was right, I had both legs behind my head in a minute with his help (that never happens). They know what they are doing though the anatomical explanation may be lacking. Most classes start with chanting, followed by asana, savasana and finally pranayama (breath work). You will leave class feeling lighter and connected to the divine energy that emanates from Rishikesh and the Ganges River.
Mother Ganges is supposed to be the healer of all ailments. 

I am not joking when I say that there is certainly a feeling of higher energy. While I was eating breakfast one morning, my waiter had lit some incense and went around the cafe chanting and waving the incense to the posters of Shiva, Krishna, Buddha as well as the window facing Ganges, he wasn't doing it for show or trying to hide his beliefs, I love that. What you will find here is that people fiercly believe in their Hinduism. This is the most enticing reason to come. Every day hundreds of people will ride to town, slip off their shoes and line-up for the temples of Laxman Jhula. They will ring bells, dip their forehead in pigment and chant together. To have absolute faith in something is inspiring.

Man dressed as Hanuman giving a blessing and expecting some rupee.

Along with the people, the weather is beautiful, and nature is pristine. You may be blessed by a Sadhu dressed as hanuman trying to make a bit of cash, but enjoy the moment. You really can feel the joy and lightness that these people spread.

Where to practice yoga: Yoga Vini, Kriya Yoga or Parmarth Niketan walk around and find drop in class times ahead of time! You will not find them online or on facebook, it can be very confusing! Classes vary between 200-500 rupees.
Where to stay: BudgetTapovan Resort, Luxury- Atali
Where to eat: LA Seeds of Life Cafe, Nector Juice Bar, Nirvana Bistro and Ramana's Organic Cafe
What to do: Wander around and get lost, you will find narrow corridors of shops and steep stairs winding through the Laxman Jhula. Cross the bridges, walk to Patna waterfall and definitely go rafting (about $12USD). Take a cooking class at Babli's Kitchen
What to buy: Mala beads, this is their birthplace. You also might like some bindi!
What to wear: Some people wear whatever they want, for yoga you cetainly can! It seems as though not many women practice yoga and the true Sadhu yogis do not take class commercially. On the street I think it is curtious to wear a scarf and a pant or skirt past your knees. No bikinis on the river!


 Enjoy! Namaste!

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